U.S. National Park System - Cultural Landscape Project - 2003
Cowlitz Farm
Cowlitz portage was the termination point of river travel from the
Columbia, and the embarkation stage for the overland route north to
Puget Sound. A large prairie was located about a mile from the landing,
and from the mid-1830s on, cattle from Fort Vancouver were driven to the
site to graze. In the summer of 1838, while Chief Factor McLoughlin was
on furlough, James Douglas sent a herd of cattle to the Cowlitz from
Fort Vancouver, with "Mr. Ross & eight men with a number of
agricultural implements." [136] Farming at
the new establishment was already underway when Chief Factor McLoughlin
returned to the Columbia from England in 1839, with the instructions to
begin intensive farming operations at the Cowlitz, which the Hudson's
Bay Company sold to the Puget's Sound Agricultural Company. Chief Trader
John Tod had been sent to superintend establishment of the farm in the
fall of 1838, and by the time McLoughlin arrived at the Cowlitz in
November of 1839: "...[I] found that Mr. Chief Trader Tod had sown 275
bushels of Wheat, which looked as well as any I ever saw he had 200
acres of new land ploughed and which has been cross ploughed during the
winter and 135 acres broken up and rails cut and carted to fence these
fields." [137] Hudson's Bay Company clerk
John Work wrote a colleague, Edward Ermatinger, that fall: "Our friend
Tod is superintending a newly established farm on an extensive scale at
the Cowlitz..." [138]
The soil at Cowlitz was rich, and far better suited than that of
Nisqually's for crop production. Over the years, the Cowlitz farm became
the chief grain producer for the P.S.A.C. Land was rapidly put into
production: by the spring of 1840, six hundred acres had been ploughed,
and by the fall of 1841 one thousand acres were under cultivation. At
the time of the 1846-47 inventory, 1,432 1/2 acres were under
cultivation. [139] Crops included wheat,
oats, barley, peas, turnips, beans, cole seed and potatoes. During later
testimony before the British and American Joint Commission, a former
employee stated that in 1846 about twelve hundred acres were enclosed
"...and subdivided by fences and ditches, into fields of convenient
size, say from fifty to one hundred acres. Portions of this land were
laid down under cultivated grasses, and the pastures were fully
stocked." [140]
As stated, the Cowlitz Portage was the termination point of river
travel from the Columbia, and the embarkation stage for the overland
route to Puget Sound. The farm was established on Cowlitz Prairie, one
of many prairies alternating with forests, located between the landing
and Fort Nisqually to the north. The prairie was about a mile from the
landing. Its size varied, according to who did the estimating: William
Tolmie thought it was about four miles long and one mile wide; Duflot
de Mofrás thought it was six by two miles, James Douglas said
the plain "...contains a surface of about 3000 acres of clear land." [845]
The site, Douglas said in 1839, had the disadvantage of "...being
separated from the River by a steep, rugged hill impracticable in its
present state, to wheeled carriages: and the excavation of a convenient
road, will be an enterprise attended with great labour and expense." [846]
Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, who arrived overland from the north in 1841
noted the farm was located on "an extensive prairie on the banks of
that river [the Cowlitz]." He later reported:
I
was told that the stock on this farm do not thrive so well as
elsewhere: there are no low prairie grounds on that side of the river
in the vicinity, and it is too far for them to resort to the Kamass
plains, a fine grazing country a few miles distant, where the wolves
would make sad depredations with the increase, if not well
watched...The hilly portion of the country, although the soil in many
parts is very good, is so heavily timbered as to make it in the present
state of the country valueless; this is also the case with many fine
portions of level grounds; but there are large tracts of fine prairie
suitable for cultivation and ready for the plough. [847]
Eugene Duflot de Mofrás, at Fort Vancouver the same year as Wilkes, described the Cowlitz River route:
Fort
Cowlitz is situated on the river of the same name and rises on a plain
6 miles long and 2 miles wide. This river, on whose banks beds of coal
and lignite are exposed, rises, as does the Nisqually, on the slopes of
Mt. Rainier and empties into the right bank of the Columbia River, a
few leagues above its mouth. Its channel, navigable only by barges, is
extremely tortuous, being filled with fallen trees, rocks and rapids
that make its passage hazardous. At narrow points its banks are steep
and great masses of granite formation thickly covered with forests tend
to give this country a wild and somber aspect Occasionally, where the
country is fairly level, plains covered with rich pasturage are
visible. The number of hectares placed under cultivation through the
Company's efforts is approximately 100. [848]
By
the spring of 1840, some houses had been built, and by the spring of
1841, when Charles Wilkes visited the site, a dairy was in operation,
and both a gristmill and sawmill were under construction. [849]
In 1845-46 a dwelling, granaries and outbuildings were erected at the
mouth of the Cowlitz River to store the farm's produce until Company
vessels could pick it up. [850]
The inventory of structures in 1846-47 listed a fifty by thirty foot
dwelling house; a forty by one hundred foot store and two forty by
thirty foot stores, two granaries and the sawmill "& improvements
attached, incomplete." In addition, there were a number of outbuildings
listed, including thirteen 105 by twenty foot barns, a "close bam,"
eighty by twenty-five feet, two piggeries, two stables, and six "men's
houses."
Two
maps of "Cowelitz" Farm as cultivated in 1844-45, and 1845 and Spring
1846 shows the farm's organization to be compact, much more similar in
nature to Nisqually's organization than to Fort Vancouver's, obviously
due to the acreage available on its large plain. It was organized in a
series of abutting rectangular and square fenced fields ranging in size
from around nine to 105 acres. Some of the larger fields had the 105 by
twenty foot barns, or grain sheds located within them. In the
approximate center of the farm was a long rectangular enclosure in
which were located two grain sheds and two barns in a line running
southeast. Southeast of these were a cluster of buildings, which are
not identified on the map, but must have been the dwelling house and
possibly the store. Southeast of these, on the banks of a stream, were
pigs styes--in 1846 the farm housed around three hundred hogs,
excluding the young ones--and a stable, and three houses. Beyond the
fenced enclosures, to the east on the plain, were several dwellings.
The fields were numbered, and a comparison between the maps shows that
crops were rotated within the different fields, although the fields
ranging along the southeasterly edge of the farm appear to have been
laid down permanently in timothy and clover. An employee later said the
Company had "a comfortable, comodious dwelling house; a large two-story
granary, with barns and sheds, conveniently distributed at various
points over the farm." The lack of a road noted by Douglas in 1839, had
been remedied by 1845: "They had a wagon road to the bank of the
Cowlitz River, made at considerable cost," The sawmill was located near
the Cowlitz River, and sheep--by 1846 about one thousand--were pastured
on lands to the north of the farm; horses were pastured on the opposite
bank of the Cowlitz. [851]
Cowlitz Farm Declines
In December of 1846, George Roberts, who had served as a Hudson's Bay
Company clerk for a number of years at Fort Vancouver, was placed in
charge of Cowlitz Farm by Chief Factor Peter Skene Ogden, succeeding
Charles Forrest. At that time, production at the Cowlitz Farm was near
its peak, with over fourteen hundred acres of land under cultivation,
piggeries, stables, two large granaries, several store buildings, houses
for the superintendent and employees, over a dozen barns, and an
incomplete sawmill. [1133] The Puget's
Sound Agricultural Company later claimed the Cowlitz Farm included 3,572
acres in total. As at Fort Vancouver, the 1849 gold rush took its toll
on the labor force; by 1850-51, the number of employees at Cowlitz had
been reduced from nineteen in 1847-48 to six. In 1851 Roberts resigned
from the Company and was replaced by Henry Peers, another alumnus of
Fort Vancouver. By this time, the bulk of the Cowlitz livestock had been
transferred to Forts Nisqually and Victoria, and agricultural operations
at the farm had been sharply reduced. In 1854, Isaac Stevens reported
the the U.S. Department of State, that the Puget's Sound Agricultural
Company claimed eight thousand acres of land at the Cowlitz, although,
he said, "According to plat deposited at Surveyor General's office,
their tract contains only about three thousand acres. Some years back
about fifteen hundred acres of land were under cultivation, but of late
years the cultivation of land has been almost entirely abandoned. The
fences have been allowed to go to decay; much of the hay even has not
been cut." [1134] According to his agent,
Isaac Ebey, "The buildings are becoming old and dilapidated." [1135].
Until 1856, minor operations of the company continued to be conducted
at the farm, although encroachments by Americans had significantly
reduced its holdings. In 1859, Roberts made arrangements to occupy the
remaining Cowlitz Farm lands and buildings for the Puget's Sound
Agricultural Company to maintain its claim to the property until
settlement of the company's claim with the United States; his obligation
was to keep the buildings in good repair. From that time until 1871,
when Roberts left for Cathlamet, Washington, he was embroiled in a
number of disputes with Americans who refused to recognize the company's
claims to the land. [1136]
The granaries built at the mouth of the Cowlitz were, by 1854 in poor
condition. In 1857, according to Dugald Mactavish, the buildings--but
not the land--were sold to an American. [1137]
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